Rob Easther December 16th, 2011

Another beautifully calm day greeted us today as the ship made its way through pack ice toward several distant icebergs.  We aimed for the vast tabular iceberg, or the Opera House with towering summits making up the sails.  After breakfast we chose the latter and by mid morning we were boarding zodiacs in a channel our Captain had carved out with the ship.  As we approached this awesome berg, a delicate snow covering lent the impression of a cake freshly dusted in icing sugar.  Sunlight played across its vast slopes, glinting blue off wind-polished facets, turning towers into incandescent candles.  Cameras clicked as we all enjoyed this ethereal light-show.  Adelies gave a flippered greeting from nearby ice floes and called to each other across the water.  Up close the berg sported water-pocked walls bedecked with icicles, an aqua blue surf-spot and calm corners where Antarctic petrels and fulmars came to feed.  Our morning passed in a wonderland of ice.

Back on board, another delicious lunch was served, followed by a short break before we were off again.  Once again, we chose a massive berg, this one another tabular that had half-rolled, its normally flat top now tilted at a rakish angle.  Water had somehow eroded one corner into a free standing tower surrounded by aqua waters given life by the swell that sent seawater deep into booming canyons before it tumbled out again in cascades of foam.  Antarctic petrels adorned a flat topped iceberg while elegant snow petrels, Wilson storm petrels and Giant petrels put on a tantalising aerial display.  Adelies entertained us once more as they swam between the floes.  Seemingly intrigued by our presence, they call to their friends to come and check us out.

Back on ship, we stayed rugged up for the evening meal – a traditional Aussie BBQ on the stern deck.  Funny hats were the order of the day and a sensational gluwein was much appreciated as light snow danced in a light, but icy, breeze.

Position 2030
Latitude 64 d 25’ S
Longitude 146 d 00’ E
Speed Nil
Course Drifting in ice
Barometer 747 hPa
Wind 12 knots SW
Air Temp 1 C

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Rob Easther December 16th, 2011

We woke yesterday to the silence of open water punctuated by the occasional carome of our tough little ship ice floes.  In the distance, the odd tabular berg held up a lowering sky.  After breakfast, we found a patch f open water for Zodiacs to be launched, and expeditioners to load.  Although the wind was slight, it carried enough chill to confirm our position just north of the Antarctic continent.  Extra ayers of clothing made all the difference as we cruised through an ice wonderland.  Floes of all sizes surrounded us, some with pressure ridges of tourtured ice, others perfectly flat.  Adelies adorned several of the floes, having leapt out of the water with comic grace, often landing perfectly on two webbed feet in a layer of soft snow.  These curious little birds captivated us as they waddled closer to discern just who exactly these yellow-breasted creatures might be as we were all adorned in yellow life jackets.  We had the chance to walk on an ice floe, some with Adelies, some without.  We were all drawn to an awesome tabular berg with deep blue fissures and shinning stalactites.  Ice pinnacles seemed to defy gravity, barely clinging to the towering walls of the main berg.

After lunch the sun broke through making ti impossible for us to resist another ice adventure.  Our exploration revealed more Adelies, another fantastic iceberg and for some, an intimate encounter with a minke whale.  For most of the time, the sun shone brilliantly, before clouds changed the mood, bringing a myriad of colours to the sky, allowing the sun infrequent opportunities to bath distant bergs in white light – at 10.00 pm!

Back on board, we reflected and toasted to Amundsen’s magnificent achievement 100 years ago to the day, his party becoming the first to reach the South Pole.  After dinner we heard from Amundsen’s journal, before we held the Mawson Huts Foundation auction which took over the bar.

Position 1830
Latitude 65 d 37’ S
Longitude 145 d 51’ E
Speed 0
Course Drifting in pack ice
Barometer 148 hPa
Winds 12 knots
Air Temp 4 C

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Rob Easther December 16th, 2011

As we were in the land of nod, a scrape and a shudder, an occasional thump and wakening silence drew us to peer out portholes across an icescape stretching to infinity.  The night before last, we’d ventured “marginal ice” (according to the chart) and well into “8/10ths pack”, a world of pressure ridges, ice hummocks metres high atop floes much larger than those we’d seen the day before.  As we braved the hike to the bridge during the night we detected an intensity of purpose as the first officer directed the helmsman to steer our trusty ship deeper and deeper – and closer and closer to Commonwealth Bay, the home of Mawson’s Huts.

Despite the beauty around us there was an underlying sombre mood. Although the crew, the ship and all the poser of positive thinking had given our best shot ti find a way through the ice to reach Commonwealth Bay, the ice was winning.  Evidence from the ice charts and another cruise ship, an ice breaker, that was in front of us, painted a picture of worsening ice and, in the end, fast ice  that stretched from Commonwealth Bay – only 25 km away.  Over the previous 28 hours we’d had optimal conditions to reach our destination.  While the Expedition Leader and the Captain poured over charts to find a way through, we showed the passengers and staff the documentary on the Mawson’s Huts Foundation and the story of our conservation of the Huts made even more real by Pete McCabe’s (a three time Foundation Expedition member) excellent account about the work on the Huts.

Just before noon, the Expedition Leader, Howard Whelan, call us all on to the bow to announce the decision that our destination had to be abandoned and the ship would turn around and head North.  Hot chocolate was poured, a toast to Mawson and his men was made and as the wild ice around us confirmed the decision we turned our backs to the Antarctic and not to set foot on the Great South Continent for this trip.  I suspect that we’ll just have to come back another day!

To make up for our disappointment, the Annual Polar Plunge took place off the starboard – about eight of us taking the plunge in -1C water, swimming – not for very long – among the icebergs.  Very refreshing indeed!

The afternoon became a spectacle of ice , snow petrels, Antarctic fulmars, lolling crab eaters and Adelies in full antic, flippering, tobogganing and calling as we passed by.  We were graced by a Wilson’s storm petrel,a giant petrel and krill stranded on ice by prop wash, keen to be rescued by passengers, but beaten to the punch by hungry snow petrels.

Position 1900
Latitude 65 d 31’ S
Longitude 145 d 12’
Speed 1 knot
Course 344 d
Barometer 735 hPa
Wind 5 knots N
Air Temp 5 C

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Rob Easther December 16th, 2011

Our first ice berg was sighted this morning at 0130, a massive tabular berg first mistaken as a cloudbank.  Thank goodness some of us were in the bar to rush to the bridge to witness this great event!  At approximately 0430 we entered the strange world of pack ice as we bumped and bounced our way along.  By 0530 the ice had dampened the swell and we spotted our first snow petrel.  And then the snow – fat flakes flurried as we pushed aside the ice floes that cracked and tipped, exposing brown sheets of diatoms and phytoplankton growing on their undersides.  Our first progress was swift, and Emperor and Adelie penguins in twos and fours welcomed us to the wonderous world of Antarticia.  As the ice thickened, our speed dropped and open leads were scruitinised with intent, our focus rewarded with the sleek forms of minke whales appearing with a gentle blow.

After breakfast we decamped to the lecture room for Ice 101, we learnt about the various stages of sea and land ice that we will encounter.

Back on the outer decks the sun broke through the clouds and turned the ice-laden seas around us into a sparkling, magical world.  Adelie penguins popped up on ice flows to flipper us unfazed as we passed or made a belly dash for the sea.  Crabeater seals lolled like gorgeous slugs, while minkes and several groups of Emperors graced us with their presence.  On the wing were Antarctic petrels and fulmars, more snow petrels wheeling like wraiths, and the special apearance of mottled petrels.

So much to see, barely any wind,sunshine – what an exquisite first taste of Antarctia.

We are fortunate to have the qualified crew of Captain Igor and his crew.

Standing on the bow it’s humbling to reflect on Mawson and his men’s own journey south in their wooden ship Aurora. They would have felt the cold fare more than we  can possibly imagine.  No doubt their accommodation and amenities wern’t quite as comfortable as ours.

in my lecture this afternoon I attempted to have the passengers understand the experience of the AAE in their life and work in the Huts 100 years ago.  Hopefully the photos and anedotes brought to life their work outside the Huts and the dinners and social life inside the Huts.

Our Antarctic night continued well into the night.  We have crossed the Rubicon and continue to head south.  Tomorrow the excitement continues with the spectacular Antarctic surrounds.

Position 2015

Latitude 65 d 10’ S

Longitude 145 d 36’ E

Speed 9.7 knots

Course 206 d

Barometer 733 hPa

Wind 10 knots W

Air Temp 3 C

G&A

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Rob Easther December 13th, 2011

A beautiful day greeted us through our portholes this morning, a shinning sun with views for miles.  A light mantled sooty albatross circled us, accompanied by many prions, Cape petrels, two Antarctic fulmar’s in addition to the odd mottled petrel and white headed petrel.  From the bridge the show was spectacular as our feathered entourage ducked and turned gracefully in the wind, skimming so close to the water you’d swear they traced a line in the swell with their wingtips.

From the bridge we spotted Humpbacks int the distance.  As steamed up on them at full speed, our Captain appeared, took control and spun the ship around for a better glimpse.  Two or three whales (possibly a calf) rolled about waving their fins, before diving down with a flip of the tail.  Again and again they appeared from their feeding forays, cruising along with mighty blows.

I provided another installment in the history series with the life and work of the AAE at Cape Denison.

Onward we sail, having crossed the Antarctic Convergence, towards Commonwealth Bay looking for our first ice berg.

Position 2115
Latitude 62 d 51’ S
Longitude 148 d 38’ E
Speed 10.7 knots
Course 214 d
Barometer 735 hPa
Wind 26 Knots N
Air Temp 3 C

A&G

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