Mawson's Huts Foundation conserving australia's antarctic heritage

Sir Douglas Mawson

Expedition Blog

The following are the personal records of members of the Foundation's expedition at Cape Denison who volunteer their skills for two months to help save the historic site - the birthplace of Australia's Antarctic heritage. The reports provide a unique window into their isolated world while carrying out the conservation work programme and these are their thoughts on their work, the weather, living conditions, new discoveries as they happen and their life as they work at the windiest place on earth at sea level. If you would like to contribute to help the Foundation's efforts please browse our "shop", buy our book or make a donation - the cost of sending each expedition is about $600,000 Australian.

You can also follow the 2009-10 expedition via our Telstra International sponsored videoblogs available on our Vimeo channel.

Join us on Facebook!

Mawson’s Huts Sitrep Friday 29th January 2010

TS February 1st, 2010

Following 5 days of rolling seas, it was very pleasant to awae in the early hours knowing that we were approaching land, a land with earth and trees! From the bridge, the first sign was the appearance of the continental shelf rising up on the ship’s sonar from the kilometers of depth of the Southern Ocean to just a few hundred metres. Soon afterwards we could see land on the radar, but due to a light rain which has been following us, it was several more hours before we saw the real stuff. You can actual smell the land! In keeping with tradition, some dolphins came alongside to escort us up the coast.

The pilot boat is booked for noon. They will meet us at the mouth of the Derwent River to guide L’Astrolabe to Macquarie wharf. Shortly afterwards we will clear customs and quarantine, meet up with friends and family, head off to a press conference and then a welcoming meal that will bring this expedition to a close.

This is our final sitrep of the journey, one that has been thoroughly enjoyed, along with a whole range of other feelings like exhaustion, elation, times of isolation, satisfaction of jobs well done, friendships. It has been my privilege to be the field leader of this group of professionals for the last 8 weeks.

To Rob and David, thanks for all of your support and advice.

And to the team, it was a great trip; I suspect many of us will be queueing up do it again sometime!

As I’ve been typing, the clouds have dissipated, giving us a welcome for the last few kilometres ahead. It’s strange to see the colours of the land so close.

Farewell from the MHF 2009/2010 team

Tony Stewart Field Leader Mawson’s Huts Foundation Expedition 2009/2010

Mawson’s Huts Sitrep 24th to 28th January 2010

TS February 1st, 2010

Sunday 24th started with a 2am arrival back at Cape Denison. A few of us got up to enjoy the second arrival for the season, while most had a well deserved sleep in their cabins. A little while later the helicopter arrived and took Marty ashore to retrieve our 14 cage pallets that we had to leave behind in our hasty departure earlier in the week. You’ve got to hand it to the French team, they will work at any hour of the day or night to get the job done. It was a huge relief to have all of the gear on board, and by 5 am we were steaming north on our 1500 nautical mile (~2800km) journey back to Hobart, about 5 and a half days away.

We were out of the ice fields and into a spot of weather very quickly, so everyone headed for their bunks. Three of the next 5 days were a continuous rough rolling sea, not severe enough to be frightening, but not conducive to much activity either. Meal times have been quiet and poorly attended until today. Michelle, Megan and Jody were actually congratulated Stan by the captain for being virtually the only people at lunch yesterday.

With the seas calming this evening, L’Astrolabe is getting more of a social atmosphere as people emerge from their cabins. Today I saw two people for the first time on the voyage.

It’s strange to look out the porthole and see darkness, something that has been absent for the past six weeks. It’s getting noticeably warmer outside.

We will be in sight of land in the morning, and expect to take a pilot aboard at noon tomorrow for the short journey up the Derwent River. Our journey is nearly at an end.

Tony and the Mawson’s Huts team.

Ode to the end…[arrival 1230 on Friday 29th January 2010]

Rob Easther January 28th, 2010

So it all comes to an end,

as ‘cross the plashy seas we wend

our way through all the commotion

no more frozen lipbalm

nor suntan lotion

no more hauling bags across the ice

nor crunching snow nor bread so nice

arisen warm in the pan

no more Delaney’s katabatic

extractor fan

I think of all the things we’ve done

in that icebound land of endless sun

as Fazz found Air Tractor fragments by the shore the pinniped’s yawn the penguin’s caw

Chris and Tony drilling holes

and flying kites and wearing soles

encased in crampons ‘cross the ice

and losing drillbits in that rocky vice

Michelle and Meg,

a pair so placid

you wouldn’t think they’d dissolve the

Sørensen in acetic acid

But such, with PeMax, is their long-laid plan all laid bare with adumbration

for this sneaky, cunning, fiendish scam creates further work for conservation

And Dear Old Marty,

with eyes that gleam

a lustful smile

in Monica’s Dream

And Pauline too

you wouldn’t refute her

endless struggles with the computer

the irish lilt, the shocking swearing

the frozen lingerie

we know she’s wearing

And Dr Jody, archaeologist

lying in her bunk half-pissed

off at other people’s snoring

poor girl, it must’ve been so

terribly boring

And moi, PeMo

lest I forget the man

triumphantly frying

the ‘bloody’ [Ed] webacm

Dear Friends,

Soon the waves, the ocean stilled

as we awake from avomine pilled

dreams upon the queasy waters

homeward bound

and homeward quartered

Some final things

a welcome dinner

a last duty for this sinner

to give great thanks to comrades true

who’ll all find bliss in a flushing loo

a cup of tea that doesn’t spill

a motionless bed that won’t make you ill

For the onward Journey I wish you well

for soon we escape

from this swaying hell

The job is done

the future swims

It’s David & Rob

with a snifter of Pimms!

from PeMo at sea!

Q&A with Pauline Askin

MHF January 25th, 2010

Pauline Askin is Irish by birth and has lived in Sydney, Australia for the past 20 years. She carries both passports proudly.

When she is not working at Reuters, she is a keen traveller preferring more intrepid destinations to relaxing under ‘five star’ properties. She enjoys running, swimming, cycling, kayaking and bushwalking and in general making use of the moderate seasonal changes in New South Wales that allow outdoor activities all year round.

Metals Conservator and part time Television cameraman /Sound Man and interviewer (helping Reuters in Antarctica), Peter Maxwell, talks to Pauline Askin about her role on the Mawson’s Huts Expedition 2009/10

Q. What has been your role here at Cape Denison?

A. I’m here in a multi media capacity for Reuters international news agency. This involves filing stories, blogs, shooting & filing television material and stills pictures for our domestic and international clients.

Q. I believe this has been your first trip on the ice, how challenging has this been for you?

A. Prior to travelling I had read a fair bit about Cape Denison and Antarctica, so I tried to prepare myself for the worst case scenario, i.e. Sir Douglas Mawson’s ‘Home of the Blizzard’ sort of existence. Certainly there were days that were challenging but the beauty of the landscape and the privilege of living here dissolved any temporary discomfort of cracked skin around your fingernails, fingers that felt like iceblocks or wet feet.

On the work front I faced major technical challenges trying to file television material via satellite from such a remote location. However, the experiences both weather and work wise has taught me a lot about self endurance and determination and as a result, I’m pleased to say it’s been easier than I expected and a lot of fun.

Q. Does the fun come from living in a tent or living with strangers?

A. I suppose a combination of both. Depending how you look at it, you could describe living in a tent as challenging or fun. Getting ready to get into my sleeping bag or ready to leave the tent was always amusing to me as there were so many layers of clothing to put on wherever you were going! Trying to read while staying warm in the sleeping bag was funny to me as it’s not easy to turn the pages of a book wearing gloves.

Living in a close environment with nine people who I had only met briefly in Tasmania was an interesting and fun experience. There was a fascinating mixture of personalities living and working in a very small space, which made it amusing and entertaining. I guess the funniest times were mainly at meal times and being a student at one of Dr. Peter Morse’s lectures on how to use the toilet and/or shower – very entertaining indeed which brought lots of laughter.

Q. Your tent was out on a flat ridge away from our base the Sorensen; did you ever have any visitors?

A. I think the entire Adelie penguin colony living metres away came by to visit me early in the morning and often through the night. They didn’t come in to my tent (thank God) but they certainly had no issues coming right up outside my tent chatting loudly. If the Katabatic wind battering the side of my tent didn’t wake me my penguin visitors did.

Q. When you leave on assignment, you’ve got a camera slung over your shoulder and sometimes a large video camera. I presume these are the tools of your trade. Have they been an essential part of your work here?

A. I don’t leave home without my (stills) camera as there are always great opportunities to get pictures here – the wildlife and icy landscape is amazing.

I’ve filed television footage with interviews on reaction to the Climate Change Conference in mid December, exclusive interviews with Captain Paul Watson from the Sea Shepherd when he and the crew of the Steve Irwin popped in to Cape Denison, Christmas day and New Year’s Eve celebrations with the Mawson’s Huts Foundation Expedition here, and the ‘air tractor parts’ find. I have attempted to do a couple of stand up pieces for the financial television side of the business. So that meant I had the TV camera out with me a lot of the time getting interviews and additional scenic material (B role). I have plenty of vision to bring back for archival purposes as prior to my visit we were short of Antarctic material.

Q.You’ve obviously had some wonderful highlights on this trip, were there any low times?

A. I’m generally a very positive person and to add to that I was so excited about this trip that adrenalin has probably kept me on a high for a long time. I’m sporting a lot of bruises and a few cuts from falling over rocks or slipping on the ice. In those situations I laughed about it. Mind you it could have been the relief of saving my cameras every single time! (Laughter is good medicine).

In terms of ‘lows’ I’m not sure. As I said earlier I expected it to be a much harsher environment and whilst it’s had it’s challenges, the environment nor the people have been as difficult as I expected – so that’s a good thing!

There were certainly times when we were stuck indoors due to bad weather that I found I needed space and a bit of solitude but as I was fortunate enough to have a tent I could go there whenever I wanted – I wouldn’t describe that as a low time though. We’re only days away from leaving Cape Denison and I think we are all ready to go. If I were told we have to stay a few weeks more, then yes I might hit a low then. But I’m confident the ‘Luck of the Irish’ will prevail and I’ll leave Cape Denison with very special memories of a very special place!

Q. As a multimedia journalist you had a very large role to fill, do you think you’ve achieved that?

A. Certainly! I filed many stories, blogged regularly; (I mentioned the TV interviews earlier) and matched pictures with blogs and stories. So yes I think I have filed more than was probably expected of me. So I’m leaving East Antarctica having succeeded against the odds and feeling I’ve achieved everything I set out to achieve and more.

Q. And finally…when you get back to your office in Sydney, do you think there will be moments where you’ll suddenly laugh about different experiences you’ve had on the ice?

A. I guess so. At this point I’m ready to go back to normality. But after a week back in my usual role as Editorial Office Manager this experience will all seem like a dream and I have no doubt there’ll be times when I won’t be able to explain to people why I’m grinning or laughing. Then again they’re used to me being a ‘happy go lucky’ person around the office so I don’t expect anyone would notice any unusual behaviour – well not unless I brushed my teeth at the kitchen sink and looked for the slops bucket to spit into – now there’s a funny thought Peter!!!!

Algorithmic Life

MHF January 25th, 2010

It’s 10.20pm, around 65ºS, the evening is dull blue, with low grey clouds wrapping the sky to the horizon, the rolling sea extending in an infinite disk in 360 degrees around us, the air chill but not cold, the darkness an intimation of our first real night to come, the wake of the ship the only real sign of our traversal, a ghostly white wake that vanishes in the middle distance of the turbulent water; the plumbless depths of ocean stretching into inky darkness below us. We are suspended – a speck traversing the membrane of the ocean surface, suspended between two great systems of fluids – the air, the water. There’s something hallucinatory about it – the unreal space and the strange suspension of time.

Appropriately, I am reading a book that seems quite apposite to the moment: Greg Egan’s ‘Permutation City’ – last read years ago, but surprisingly prescient for a novel written in 1994. He extrapolates a fiction out of the idea of cellular automata – simple computational processes that give rise to surprising complexity – even ‘infinite’ complexity, as certain of these systems exhibit the characteristics of universal Turing machines – that is, that they are, in theory, able to undertake any computational task – and the range of computable things is vast. In an information-theoretic sense it can be argued that the universe – the world we experience – is a process of computation, though of course, one vastly more complicated than that made by our present day computing machines. The paradox is that a cellular automaton can be drawn on a piece of graph paper – so the computational system inheres in the pattern of computation, not the substrate of it’s representation. It doesn’t matter whether it’s silicon chips or pieces of paper, computation occurs in the patterns – the algorithms are the recipes.

The book explores the notions of artificial life – the idea that computational processes can mimic or evolve lifelike characteristics – emergent processes articulated by genetic algorithms – that are ultimately indistinguishable from life. It got me thinking that life on the ship is somewhat algorithmic – it follows steady patterns that are regular and predictable and that there’s probably a kind of formula for it:

function OnWakeUp () { if unclothed then go to bathroom else if clothed wonder why you didn’t take them off go to breakfast end if; }

function BathRoom () { if toilet is unblocked then ablute

else if toilet is blocked go to AnotherToilet

end if; function AnotherToilet () {go to BathRoom end if;} function BreakFast () {if bread then

rand (plumjam strawberryjam marmelade vegemite) else if no bread go to curse; }

// — many other processes to insert here </consciousness> </day>

Basically life seems to revolve around a series of processes like this – go to breakfast, have a sleep afterwards or stroll on deck; go to lunch, have a sleep or read a book; go to dinner, have a sleep, stroll on deck or read book. “Read book” can also mean ‘watch movie, listen to ipod etc.’ Excitement occurs when there are occasional interactions with other organisms aboard ship or when situations of emergent self-organising complexity arise – maybe a quiz night or something.

Maybe I’ve been reading too much science fiction.

Peter

Next »